My first real “wow” moment on this trip was in Rishikesh. I have been to temple towns before, but this one felt different from the moment we got there. The streets were full of people looking at different shops, temple bells ringing somewhere in the distance, and cows walking around like they completely belonged there. I pointed out every single one because cows are my favorite animals. Some just stood there, some were eating, and a few followed people down the street. It was crowded and busy, but it still felt calm at the same time. Down by the Ganga River, not the Ganges like the West likes to call it, people were bathing in the water. Some stood with their eyes closed while others dipped under and came up with hands pressed in prayer.

That evening, before Ganga Aarti, we found a spot right in front of the Shiva statue. It is known for standing through the 2013 floods, and even though everything around it has been repaired since, people still see it as a symbol of strength. When the Ganga Aarti started, the whole atmosphere changed. Bells were ringing, people were singing, and a group of young boys led the ceremony, waving the lamps in sync with the chants. The fire reflected on the water, and the crowd clapped and sang along. Without even thinking about it, I joined in. I had not heard some of these bhajans in years, but the words just came back. I kept looking around, taking in the lights, the voices, the smell of the incense, the sound of the river, and the statue standing tall behind it all. When it ended, I walked down to the river, scooped up some Ganga water, and sprinkled it on my head, something my grandparents and parents had been insistent on me doing. The second I did it, it felt like something I actually wanted for myself for a sort of soul purification.

That whole night stayed with me. I had a toothache that was so bad that one side of my face was swollen, but during the Aarti I barely noticed it. There was just so much happening and for a couple of hours, even my tooth seemed to get the hint to stop bothering me. It was like everything else faded into the background, and I was exactly where I was supposed to be, balloon face and all.