When I came to Senegal, I was not intending to get any clothing. To me, I felt somewhat shallow to focus on the consumer aspect of the trip instead of the education or the cultural immersion parts. However, my mom changed my mind during a call one evening on the trip. She convinced me that getting a piece of cultural clothing would be a form of cultural immersion, especially if I followed the typical process of buying fabric, going to the tailor, etc. In hindsight, I agree that my experience immersed me more than I previously thought into Senegal.
It started during a lunch at the West African Research Center when our group was eating with some master’s students from Cheikh Anta Diop University. I sat at a table with a woman named Mama Arame Ba who was doing her master’s in colonial studies. We talked and after lunch, she and her friend Fatou ended up coming with our group as we went to the craft market Soumbedioune. I went around the craft market with the two Senegalaise and they helped me/watched in amusement as I did my best to bargain with varying levels of success. During this process, I mentioned that I was looking for a dress. We went to one shop where the vendor offered to sell me the fabric and make the dress for 30,000 CFA ($53 USD) and while this would be a steal in the US, Mama and Fatou whispered to me that it was a rip off in Senegal, and so we left. In the end, I didn’t find anything I wanted at Soumbedioune, but Mama offered to help me get a dress as her sister sold fabric and she knew a good tailor in a different market called Sandaga.
Later that night, Mama sent me the fabrics that her sister sold. None of them were quite what I was envisioning, especially when I had really liked one of the fabrics that the Soumbedioune vendor who tried to rip me off was selling. However, I appreciated all the effort Mama was going through for me and I recognized that because we knew each other now, I could trust that she was giving me a fair price. I went with a blue zig zagged fabric and we made plans to meet at the tailor the next day.
The next day after classes, I joined Mama, Fatou, and another one of their friends named Soila and they took me to the market Sandaga. I had been a bit anxious to hang out with Senegalese people on my own since my French wasn’t great and I worried I’d be a terrible conversation partner, but the girls were all able to talk between themselves and I was content to listen. When I did speak, I was able to use a mixture of French, English, Wolof, and Google Translate support to get my point across which was a pretty fun exercise. Very quickly, I fell into the rhythm of the group’s dynamic. After a quick coffee stop and some attempts to find a taxi at rush hour, we were on our way across town.
The tailor was not too deep into the Sandaga, so we did not have to go far. We went down a thin and nondescript alley lined with stalls and shops. In the corner of the alley was the shop of the tailor Alfa. Alfa was Mama’s tailor for her Tabaski dresses and other important events, so they already knew each other. I showed him the inspiration and he took my measurements in between working with other customers and coworkers, which gave me time to watch him sew and ask a few questions. When looking at a very elaborate Tabaski dress, I asked him how long it takes him to make something like that. He told me just one day, if he’s putting his mind to it. I can’t imagine something that elaborate and completely handmade coming together in just a day
After he got the measurements, the fabric, and took a picture of my dress inspiration, we were on our way. I picked up the dress about a week later, the day before Tabaski, which allowed me to wear it to Tabaski. I ended up loving the fabric both for its visuals because it makes me think of ocean waves, and for its meaning as it represents an adventure with new Senegalese friends in new places. It represents taking a step out of my social anxiety ridden comfort zone and allowed me to see that there are really fun opportunities and connections out there if I’m willing to work through communication challenges.
I still have Mama Arame’s number and we text every few days. I hope to keep her as a friend and that we can meet again in the future either in the US or once again in Senegal.
