It’s been a week and some change since we landed in the Republic of Cyprus, and I am loving every moment of it. Cyprus is fairly similar to other EU nations, but different from the US in nearly every way. The first shock came when I realized Cypriots drive on the left. It was strange adjusting at first, and crossing the street certainly took a few double takes. Cypriot speak Greek primarily, but almost everyone speaks English, and paired with some basic Greek phrases, it is not too difficult to communicate (Kalimera!). As for eating, the Cypriot diet is certainly different and distinctly Mediterranean: grilled meats, fish, cheeses, olives, tahini, and pita are staples. However, most restaurants cater to a wide range of cuisines. You can easily find burgers, pastas, and pizzas on menus. An interesting try is Cypriot coffee, in which the grounds settle at the bottom of an espresso cup. You do not eat the grounds, but supposedly this style has health benefits. And of course, you can find the familiar comforts of home: fast food chains, Starbucks, and American stores.
On the day to day, our itinerary is certainly packed, featuring company visits, cultural heritage tours, and lectures at the University of Nicosia. However, after program hours, we have significant freedom to explore and immerse ourselves in the local culture. The old towns of Limassol and Nicosia are beautiful, with shops and restaurants lining the streets. Shopping for souvenirs quickly became one of my favorite pastimes and it was always a small joy to see what different stores had in stock.
For a later dinner, a popular meal here is known as “meze,” and involves many courses shared by a group. The meal begins with pita, dips, and salad, typically of cucumber, tomato, and cheese. Appetizers come next, usually various forms of cheese, especially Halloumi, a local goat and sheep’s milk cheese. Then come the “entrees”, which may be 3-4 large plates of pork, chicken kebab, and sausage. However, you can also find fish meze, in which case the courses will be seafood themed, with crab, octopus, fried fish, and more. There can also be desert, such as panne cotta, one of my favorites. Fries are also very popular and are served with almost every meal.
Shopping is also an enjoyable activity. Souvenir shops typically all sell the same things, but are reasonably priced so picking up a large variety of gifts will not break the bank. There are some recognizable brands, such as H&M or Flying Tiger. If you grab your passport, you can take a trip to the Turkish-occupied side too. This can be done at one of the road crossings through the UN Buffer Zone, or one of the pedestrian crossings in the divided capital of Nicosia. Nicosia is actually the last divided capital in the world. On the Turkish side you can find much of the same as on the Greek Cypriot side. However, while just visiting, it is also interesting to observe a clear religious split: churches can be found on the Cypriot side, and mosques on the Turkish-occupied side. This is due to ethnic cleansing and forced migration during the 1974 invasion, and importantly, as all Cypriots will stress, the Cypriot problem is NOT about religion, but purely about politics.
Overall, between the incredible rich and deep ancient history of the island, and the tantalizing effects of more recent developments, there is so much to behold in Cyprus. The island is not only beautiful and picturesque, but its complex political situation opens your eyes to an unexpected reality and a different perspective on what it means to be a citizen of a country.
